hese dry Jain shelters, built by the powerful Cheti dynasty, are a tribute to rock architecture... The rock engravings tell the tale of a noble Jain warrior  King Kharavela. The rooms emit a sense of austerity. Beautiful rock carvings adorn the walls. The light, playing 'hide and seek', reveals the beauty of the rock caves spread across the 'Hill of Sunrise' or the famed Udayagiri Hill, situated 10 km away from Bhubaneswar. It rises to a height of about 135 feet, silhouetting the coastal plain.
The Udayagiri caves, 18 in all, are coarse sandstone structures and were once home to Jain monks. While many of these ascetic chambers are natural rock shelters, quite a few were carved out and donated by the famous Jain patron, King Kharavela of the Cheti (Chedi) dynasty. Nearly 2000 years old, these Jain dwellings mark an important period in the history of rock-cut architecture, art, and religion in eastern India.

The inscriptions and murals in these caves provide insights into the history of the powerful Cheti dynasty, which ruled Kalinga (present day Orissa) some time around the 1st century BC. The names of kings Kharavela and Kudepasiri, and prince Vadukha, find special mention in the inscriptions. Kudepasiri and Vadukha find mention as the donors of two cells in the lower storey of 'Cave-9' or 'Manchapuri'. However, quite a lot is mentioned about Kharavela on the brow of the rock over Cave-14 or 'Hathi Gumpha' (elephant cave). Most of the inscriptions have been defaced, but enough is known to establish him as a noble and powerful warrior, and a patron of Jainism.

The 'Rani Gumpha' or the Queen's cave is the largest of all and shows off some of the finest sculptures of Udayagiri. Many of the carvings in the cave portray contemporary scenes and also illustrate Kharavela's victory over his enemies. Some of the caves like 'Chota Hathi Gumpha' are double- storeyed and contain carvings of elephants, flanking its entrance.

The 'Bagh Gumpha' or tiger cave is another beauty. It has been so named because the entrance is fashioned like the mouth of a tiger. Some of the other fascinating caves are 'Hathi Gumpha', 'Ganesh Gumpha' (with the head of Ganesha carved out in the rear wall of the cell), 'Pavana Gumpha' (purification cave), and 'Sarpha Gumpha' (serpent cave).

The caves house rows of cells which share a common verandah. Essentially used for meditation, these cells were austere and barely furnished. The low roof of the cells meant that the resident could barely stretch to his full height. The carvings on the walls describe the austere lives of the Jain monks who spent their lives meditating there.

The caves are accessible by a flight of steps and an ancient ramp from the base of the hill. At the top of the Udayagiri caves are the ruins of Chaitya Hall, excavated in 1958. A place of worship of the Jain monks, it is believed that this place housed the 'Kalinga fina', a Jain cult object, which was recovered by Kharavela from King Nanda of Magadha. A delightful slice of ancient history, the Udayagiri caves are easily accessible from the capital city of Bhubaneswar.

The caves remain open for visitors from 8 am to 6 pm. Entry fee is Rs 5 for Indians and Rs 100 for foreigners.

Tourist Information

How to reach:

• By Air: The nearest airstrip is the Biju Patnaik Airport in Bhubaneswar. The Udayagiri caves are just 7 km away from the airport.

• By Rail: Bhubaneswar railway station is well connected with major cities.

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